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Panmunjeom

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dmz3 Panmunjeom was a small village 48 km northwest of Seoul and 10 km east of Kaesong, located in the middle of what is now the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). It was the venue of the Korean War armistice talks between the U.N. Forces and the Communists that lasted from October 1951 until July 1953. The 155-mile long DMZ established in Panmunjeom in 1953 at the time of the signing of the Armistice extends from Gyodong, Ganghwado Island (in the West Sea) to Myongho-ri, Gosong (in the East Sea). After the signing of the Armistice Agreement that ended the open hostilities on July 27, 1953, Panmunjeom was designated the headquarters of the Military Armistice Commission (MAC).Four levels of meetings are conducted between the two Koreas, and it has since been the guardian of the longest truce in modern times.

Panmunjeom Freedom House, originally built in 1965, was rebuilt in 1998. Panmun-gak, the administrative headquarters of the North Korean Security Force within the Joint Security Area (JSA), was built in 1968. Other buildings for inter-Korean dialogue were established in the 1980. In addition to serving as the stage for the MAC, it also acts as a meeting area for the conciliation, interaction, and cooperation between the two Koreas, with the cooperation part beginning to assume more importance. Panmunjeom also provides the only road connecting the two countries.

Panmunjeom Liaison offices for both Koreas were established in Panmunjeom with 23 hotlines for inter-Korean dialogue and also a hotline at the MAC linking both Koreas. Panmunjeom is unique in that it is under the joint management of the United Nations Command (UNC) and North Korea. However, since the 1976 ax murder incident (in which North Korean guards attacked a UNC work party and killed two American officers), the sentries have been separated and the Joint Security Area split in half.

jsa019 Two villages, one on each side of the DMZ, were authorized in a subsequent agreement to the Armistice. No other inhabited areas are allowed within the DMZ. Taesong-dong ("Great Success Village"), located approximately one-half kilometer southwest of the JSA, is in the UNC portion of the DMZ. The residents of Taesong-dong are required to be either original inhabitants or direct descendants of the villagers who were residing there when the Armistice was signed in 1953. Among other perks, male villagers are exempt from military service. However, villagers must also abide by strict rules, including a nightly curfew.

flag pole Directly across from Taesong-dong is the North Korean village of Kichong-dong or "Peace Village." U.N. troops call it "Propaganda Village" because of the propaganda often blasted from loud speakers located near the village. Although North Koreans work the fields by day, they are all removed from the area before dark and only a small custodial staff actually lives in Kichong-dong.

Bridge of No Return Also located in the JSA is the "Bridge of No Return." In 1953, this bridge was used to return prisoners of war of both sides, who were allowed to make a free irreversible choice on whether to return to their place of origin. For the North Korean and Chinese prisoners of war held by the UNC, this meant choosing between living in the South or Nationalist China (Taiwan), or being repatriated to North Korea or the People's Republic of China. Thousands chose not to return to their communist homelands.

jsa022 The area has also been the site of a few high publicity crossings, including the 1968 repatriation of the crew of the U.S.S. Pueblo (captured in international waters 11 months earlier by the North Korean Navy), several defections on both sides, and the homecoming (and immediate arrest) of several South Koreans who visited North Korea without prior permission from the South Korean government. Recently, Panmunjeom has attracted more interest as a stage for peaceful unification. In June 1998, Chung Ju-yung (honorary chairman of the Hyundai Group) became the first businessman to cross Panmunjeom to North Korea to deliver cows.

Third Tunnel of Aggression
dmz013 Most tours to the JSA also include a stop to visit one of the tunnels under the DMZ. Four major tunnels were found in the 1970s, all allegedly built by the North Koreans (which the North vehemently denies). The tunnels are wide enough for several soldiers to walk abreast, and some are wide enough for tanks and armored troop carriers. Military analysts speculated that the tunnels were intended for a second sneak attack by the North Koreans, allowing them to move large numbers of tanks, troops, and support vehicles and supplies under the DMZ completely undetected.

dmz014 The third tunnel was discovered in October 1978, based on information provided by an engineer who defected from the North. This has been opened to public tours, although you are not allowed to go past a certain point of the tunnel, which is heavily fortified with machine gun nests and concrete barriers. Officials explain that visitors cannot go past that point because of a risk posed by the North. (So there is no way to prove that the whole issue is not just a big propaganda ploy by the South's government to maintain anti-Communist fear in the populace.)

Taking a Tour
jsa004 Individuals may not visit Panmunjeom by themselves. All visitors must belong to an organized tour. Many tour companies offer tours, but not all include visits to the JSA or the Third Tunnel of Aggression. The longer tours also include lunch at the JSA. (Note that during scheduled or emergency meetings between the North and South at the JSA, tourists are not allowed in the area, so that that part of the tour will be cancelled.) South Korean citizens may not usually visit Panmunjeom without special permission from the government. All visitors must observe the rules against photographing certain places, refrain from any gestures or actions that might antagonize the North Korean guards, and follow a strict dress code. Blue jeans, shorts, or any other provocative clothes are not allowed, and visitors must bring their passport.

Admission: Free

Directions: Imjingak -> Bridge of Freedom -> Panmunjeom

(See more information about the DMZ.)

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(See more pictures about the DMZ.)


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