The embroidery of Joseon is classified into two groups: Gung-su (royal court embroidery) and
Min-su (folk embroidery). The National Museum of Korea has two works: landscape and immortals by
Queen In-hyeon and embroidery of Immortals by princes Jongmyeong, the daughter of Sonjo. Among the
collection of Changdeok Palace, the embroidered character
(letter) screen is believed to be the work of Empress Myeongsong.
Most of the collection was made in the palace to supply the demands of royal court. There is great variety
in designs and kinds, including the large scale of screens with pine trees and cranes, flowers and birds,
and hundred-letters of longevity and happiness. Other items include ceremonial clothes, room draperies,
incense pouches, writing brush pouches, and norige (women's accessories).
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The major designs and patterns of Joseon embroidery are clouds and waves, mountains and water falls, peonies,
lotus flowers, sagunja (the four seasonal plants), Chinese letters, turtle shells, geometric patterns,
tigers, ducks, phoenixes, and other living creatures. The pictures on screens are made more for appreciation
and are more artistic than practical objects. For dress ornaments, embroidery on the breast signifies the
status and rank of the wearer. Patterns on practical articles are mostly abstract patterns like longevity
symbols or seven-treasure patterns.
As a base, primary colors were dyed with natural dye using many different types of flowers and herbs. They were
then dyed with other colors. Each dyed thread was dyed again into three gradations- dark, medium, and light.
Sometimes two colors of threads were mixed to make a desired color. The color scheme of court embroidery was
characterized by its simple look and delicate aesthetic appeal. Another feature of Gung-su appears in water
patterns and waves where the contours were encircled with golden thread. Three groups of specialists
participated in the production. A professional painter designed a draft, while some skilled dyers produced the
cloth and thread. Maids of honor who specialized in embroidery work with many years of training and experience
performed the actual embroidery. The resulting work had a highly refined beauty and elegance.
Min-su was made for the need of common people from gentry to farmers. Free
from standard rules, the works varied from screen to a thimble. Though Min-su
is inferior to Gung-su in artistry of design and color schemes, it
revealed the simple and naive sentiment of the common people. There were two different types of embroidery
in the provinces. In Anju, men made most of the embroidered works. The products were mostly large articles
(such as folding screens) and were supplied to the royal court. The works gave a lively and robust feeling.
Sunchang embroidery was made by the groups living in Sunchang (located in a North Jeolla Province) and
continued for generations as a family business.
It was unique as they embroidered without using a wooden frame (if the works were small pieces such as spoon
cases, pouches, or side pieces of pillows). As the pillow side pieces became increasingly popular, they made
a new device, a wood-block printing device for drafts which enabled mass production. These were supplied by
peddlers to Seoul's common market (Insa-dong and today's
Jongno street).
Five types of drawing methods were used to make the draft.
- Drawing on Korean paper (rice paper) with a fine brush and copying it over carbon paper
- Drawing figures such as flowers, birds, or animals on paper, then cutting them and putting them on the cloth
- Making outlines with thread
- Wood block printing
- Making a paper figure and applying white powder
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