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People of higher statuses wore much more ornate and expensive clothes than the commoners did.
Certain types of clothing and special colors were reserved only for those of the royal family.
Certain symbols denoted various levels within the government hierarchy. (Note: Korea's monarchs
have been called emperors or kings, depending on the strength of relations with China at the time.
China's court did not tolerate any other sovereign calling himself emperor, so other
rulers had to "demote" themselves to king during times of strong Chinese influence.) Symbols During the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910), symbols representing the wearer's rank began appearing on the hem of clothes. A dragon represented an empress and a phoenix represented a queen. Princesses and royal concubines wore floral patterns. High ranking court officials wore clouds and cranes. The color gold was also reserved for royalty throughout much of Korea's history. Hwalot Princesses wore this ritual attire during the Koryo (918-1392) and Chosun (1392-1910) Dynasties. Images of the 10 noble plants and animals representing longevity, luck, and wealth in Korean culture were embroidered with crimson thread. The noble classes also used it as a bridal topcoat in wedding ceremonies. The extreme cost of making a hwalot forced the common people to use nok wonsam instead.
During the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910), royalty, high-ranking court ladies, and noble women wore a wonsam, a ceremonial topcoat. The color and decorations around the chest, shoulders, and back represent the rank of the wearer. |
 hwang wonsam- worn by empress (hwang means gold) |
 hong wonsam- worn by queen (hong means red) |
 nok wonsam- worn by princesses* (nok means green) |
 Kaesong wonsam- worn by nobility in the Kaesong region |
DanguiThe dangui represented minor ceremonial clothes for the queen, princess, or wife of a high ranking government official. Among the noble class, wives wore it for major ceremonies. Royal families had gold trim, while others had plain ones. Myonbok and Cheokui (King's and Queen's Ceremonial Clothes) Together, the with myonryugwan (headdress) and gonbok (clothes) comprised the myonbok outfit, the king's religious and formal ceremonial clothes during the Koryo (918-1392) and Chosun (1392-1910) Dynasties. The queen's outfit, Cheokui, originated from the Koryo Dynasty (918-1392). The design is based on a present from China's Empress Hoyja (Ming Dynasty). 
Ch'eollikThe ch'eollik was worn by the king and various civil and military officials during the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910). 
Hwangp'oThe king wore the hwangp'o for daily clothes during the late Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910). Due to Chinese influence, the Korean king was not allowed to wear gold (hwang). Instead, the Korean king wore hongryongp'o (hong means red). In 1897, with China weakened politically, King Kojong changed his title to emperor and from that time wore hwangp'o. 
AengsamStudents wore the aengsam as formal clothing during the national government exam and governmental ceremonies. The highest scorer (changwon kupchae) on the government test received a special award from the king- a flowered hat called an aisahwa. The person then had 3 days vacation as reward for his excellence. |
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See the Traditional Court Clothing Cultural Spotlight for more information on the various forms during each historical period. |
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