Cultural Spotlight: Traditional Korean Alcohol

1. The Origin of Korean Alcohol

The Chinese character, 'ju' for alcohol derives from a special pot used for fermentation. It has a pointed bottom and amphora-like shape, making it easy to separate out sediment that has settled to the bottom. The Korea word, 'sul', originated from su (meaning water in Chinese) and bul (fire). This came to be abbreviated over time into sul. The term fired water came from the boiling appearance of fermenting liquid.

There is an old saying that goes 'water was created by god, sul was created by humans.' The origin of alcohol is steeped in mythology. In Egyptian mythology, Isis' husband Osiris taught the god of grain how to make beer. In Greek-Roman mythology, it was Dionysos-Bachus. In the Old Testament, Noah was the first to make alcohol. In Chinese mythology, princess Weechok created the first alcohol.

What about Korea? The first alcohol story appears in Jewang-Ungi, one of Korea's historical archive books. It tells of a king who uses alcohol to seduce a woman and make her pregnant. Her son's name, in Chinese characters, was Sul. Although there is little written evidence of the origin of alcohol in Korea, this does not prove that it was introduced from China. It is possible that the process was introduced to Korea and China simultaneously by the first migrating tribes moving from Manchuria into China and the Korean peninsula. Korea has a long history of sul and fermented foods.

2. Sul in Goguryeo

Goguryeo was the northern most of the three kingdoms on the Korean peninsula from the 3rd century to the 7th century (the Three Kingdoms Era). Archaeological evidence indicates that the Goguryeo culture had a highly developed tradition of fermented foods and drink. At that time they made drinks using nuruk (fermentation mix) and malt. The methods used today were developed 1,700 years ago. Recorded methods of making sul date from as early as A.D. 430. Gasahyop, the governor of the Sadong peninsula, recorded the technique during the Wei Dynasty of China. The Sadong region neighbored the Korean peninsula and was familiar with its customs. This technique for making sul was transferred to China and Korea's Silla Kingdom. In China it became the fine liquor Gokaju. In Silla it became known as the drink of poets.

3. Sul in Baekje
Baekje was the second of the Three Kingdoms and it dominated the southeastern part of the peninsula. Sul was introduced to Japan from Baekje by Susubori (Korean for brewer) who became the Japanese god of drink. According to an old Japanese archival text "Ground Rice," Susubori offered sul to a Japanese king. This was the king's first taste of alcohol and it made him joyous and he sang aloud. Although no records exist from Baekje about its sul making techniques, Japanese records of the period give a good insight. They suggest that Baekje sul was of the same high quality as Goguryeo.

4. Sul in Silla and Unified Silla
Silla was the third of the Three Kingdoms, dominating in the southwest region and eventually unifying the peninsula in the 7th century. Silla was a younger state and was at first less developed than Goguryeo and Baekje. This included their sul making techniques. However, Silla rapidly caught up with its older neighbors in all areas. The Silla text 'Jibung Yuseol' gives evidence of Silla's sul making tradition. By the time Silla had unified the three kingdoms, the method of distillation had been developed and drinking became popular among the upper classes at this time.

5. Goryeo Dynasty

By the time of the Goryeo Dynasty (918 - 1392), brewers had perfected techniques and developed a wider variety of drinks and there was frequent trade with Sung Dynasty China. Temples served as inns for merchants and travelers. These temples served sul and were among the few with the abilities and resources to make sul. Palaces had a special building (Yangonseo) where sul was made for ceremonies and national celebrations. The sul made in these Yangonseo was always of the highest quality because it was only used for important celebrations. Seo Geung, an ambassador from Sung Dynasty China, mentioned sul in the book he wrote about Korea. He noted the use of regular rice, rather than Chinese sticky rice, in the making of nuruk. He also recorded that while it caused rapid drunkenness, people recovered from its hangovers very quickly. Distillation practices were passed on from Arabia to the Mongols of the Yuan Dynasty, then to Manchuria and into Korea, according to archived medical texts (Dongui-Bogam and Boncho-Gangmok). Common people could not get the same high quality of drink at this time. However, by the 14th century, they came to know soju (distilled sul).

- Alcohol Types of Goryoe Dynasty
This period of Korean history developed the three basic kinds of Korean liquor: takju, yakju, and soju. Other drinks developed at this time include:

Podoju - rice wine mixed with grapes
Dosoju - new year's herb wine
Gyehyangeoju - gyaesil herb wine introduced from China and noted for its pleasant aroma
Yuju - a horse milk drink introduced by a Korean queen from Mongolia
Gamju - a sweet, low-alcohol rice wine
Ihwaju - a very heavy makgeolli-like drink so thick that it must be eaten with a spoon

6. Joseon Dynasty

Brewers had begun to make a liquor of very high quality. They also developed a method that increased the quantity of yeast in the nuruk (malt) mix. By this time 300 different kinds of drink had been developed. Soju had become so popular that Jeong Yakyong, a famous scholar and politician, suggested that the King take distillers away from the common people. His logic was that the people were using too much of their rice to make soju and not saving enough to eat. By banning soju production, the King would preserve the nation's food supply. In addition to takju, yakju, and soju, a fourth class of drink developed in the late Joseon period: gwahwajuryu was made very sweet or mixed with soju to give it a longer shelf life.

- Alcohol Types of Joseon Dynasty

Takju

Ihwaju - very heavy rice nuruk that has to be eaten with a spoon, high alcohol percentage
Sajeolju - wheat nuruk with a similar taste to Ihwaju
Hondonju - the exact nature of this drink is not precisely known- it was either takju that finished fermenting in 4 days or that had soju added to it
Hapju - only takju is produced when making hapju, no yakju results from the fermentation
Moju - the fermentation mix sediment (suljigemi) left after the fermentation process is mixed with water to draw out the remaining alcohol.

Hongju and Baekju

Cheondae Hongju - made with red nuruk and sticky rice
Baekju - a type of takju

Gamju

Gamju - a weak rice cider
Cheong -gamju- a very sweet, low alcohol drink
Iyangju/Cheongsoju - the vat is water cooled during the fermentation process, made in summer
Wasongju - fermented in a hollow cut into a rotten pine tree, sealed with clay
Juktongju - fermented inside bamboo
Gahyangju - a liquor with an especially pleasant aroma, a general category that includes many drinks
Gwasilju - a general category encompassing all herb wines except grape wine

Soju (distilled)

Gongdokji Soju - rice soju made in the Kongdokji region just outside Seoul
Andong Soju - rice soju made in the Andong region
Chabssal Soju - sticky rice soju
Samhae Soju - soju infused with herbs

HonYang-ju

Gwahaju - a general term for cooling summer time drinks
Songsunju - soju made with sticky rice and soft, immature pine cones
Samhaesoju - cold fermented

Yakyong soju

Gwanso - gamhongro- soju with herbs and honey
Iganggo - soju with herbs, cinnamon, pear, ginger, and water added
Jukryeokgo - soju with bamboo sap and water added

Yakyongyakju

Jaju - yakju heated by placing the bottle in boiling water
Gugiju - ruruk mixed with the fruit of the Chinese matrimony vine

7. Japanese Occupation (1910-45)
During the Joseon Dynasty, brewing was not industrialized or monopolized. Brewing was done in the home on a small scale, with about 1 in 7 homes producing sul. During the Japanese occupation, this form of production was outlawed and the Japanese issued brewing licenses to favored local supporters. These licensed brewers produced drink en mass and were, it turn, taxed by the Japanese and formed the beginning of industrial sul making in Korea. During this period, nuruk (malt) production became a major business concern and Western drinks, such as beer and whisky, were introduced to Korea. These drinks became popular among the wealthy, while Korean traditional drinks have been preserved among the common people.

8. After Liberation
Due to the long period of Japanese exploitation and the subsequent devastation of the Korean War, this period was actually worse for sul production than before liberation. Takju and watered soju became popular and the Korean liquor industry began focusing on more healthy drinks. Many of the traditional recipes have been altered and a vast variety of traditional drinks have been lost. Since 1980 the government has lifted some of the controls on sul production, allowing the recreation of some 50 kinds of sul. This pales in comparison to the variety that has been lost. The government has also allowed home brewing again since 1995. However, it will take a long time to rebuild the glorious home brewing tradition of the past.

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